Leather Care Guide

Leatherology products are crafted to last, and a simple care routine will keep them looking their best for years to come. Most Leatherology leathers follow the same care instructions below. If your item is Berlin, Italian Unlined, or Suede, skip to the specific instructions for those collections.

Not sure which leather type you have? You can find it on the product page. These instructions apply to every leather piece we make, and a little regular maintenance goes a long way. If you have a canvas product, visit our Canvas Care page.

Shop All Cleaning Accessories

How Often to Care for Your Leather

Berlin and Italian Unlined leather follow a different routine — skip conditioning entirely for those two. Details are in their sections below.

How to Clean Leather

Clean once a week or as needed.

To remove small scratches, use a clean fingertip to gently rub out the scratch. The natural oils in your skin may help minimize small surface scratches. To remove dirt, grime, or surface residue, use a soft, damp (not wet) cloth and gently rub — don't scrub.

For a deeper clean, we recommend Leatherology Leather Cleaner, which preserves the leather's natural oils rather than stripping them. Whatever cleaner you choose, make sure it does not contain caustic chemicals or harmful abrasives. Always test in a hidden area first to ensure compatibility before applying to the full surface.

For lining care: Spot treat with a baby wipe or damp cloth to minimize stains.

A note on leather wipes: pre-moistened leather wipes are fine for a quick surface clean when you're away from home, and they're useful for a fast pass on a bag interior. They're not a substitute for conditioning, though — most contain very little of what keeps leather supple. Check that any wipe you use is made specifically for leather and is free of alcohol and bleach, and test it in a hidden area first.

How to Condition Leather

Condition once every six months.

To preserve your leather's texture and keep it looking supple, use an all-natural leather conditioner such as Leatherology Leather Conditioner. Always test in a hidden area first before applying to the full surface.

What Not to Use on Leather

Most of the damage we see doesn't come from neglect — it comes from a well-meaning home remedy. Leather is skin, and the household products that work on countertops and fabric tend to strip it, stain it, or dry it out. Before you reach for something under the sink, here's what to leave there.

• Olive oil and coconut oil. These get recommended constantly for DIY leather conditioning, and they do soften leather at first. But food oils go rancid inside the grain over weeks or months, leaving a dark, blotchy patch and a sour smell that can't be washed out. The change is permanent.
• Disinfectant wipes and bleach. Clorox-style wipes, bleach, and alcohol-based sanitizers dissolve the protective finish along with whatever you're trying to remove. The result is usually a dull, pale spot that's more noticeable than the original mark.
• Vinegar. A staple of homemade leather cleaner recipes, and too acidic for finished leather. It can lift color and leave the surface stiff.
• Dish soap and laundry detergent. These are built to break down oils — including the natural oils that keep leather supple. Even a mild soap diluted in water pulls more out of the leather than it puts back.
• Heat. Hair dryers, radiators, sunny windowsills, and clothes dryers all dry leather faster than it can adjust, which causes stiffening and cracking. Wet leather should always air dry at room temperature.
• Baby wipes on leather itself. Fine for spot-treating a fabric lining, as noted above. On the exterior, the added cleansers and fragrance can leave a residue.

What to use instead: for everyday cleaning, a soft cloth dampened with water handles most of it. For a deeper clean, use a product made for leather, like our Leather Cleaner and Leather Conditioner. Whatever you choose, test it in a hidden area first.

Scratches, Stains & Everyday Marks

Leather is a natural material, so it picks up the story of how you use it. Most everyday marks fade on their own or lift with a light touch — the key is acting early and reaching for the gentlest method first.

Scratches and Scuffs

Most surface scratches aren't permanent. Rub the mark gently with a clean fingertip or thumb — the natural oils in your skin often minimize it within a few passes. Work in small circles and give it time before deciding it hasn't worked.

For scuffed leather that doesn't respond to a fingertip, a light application of Leatherology Leather Conditioner can help blend the mark into the surrounding surface. Always test in a hidden area first.

One exception: do not use cleaner or conditioner on Berlin or Italian Unlined leather. Use the fingertip method only. On Berlin especially, marks and scuffs are part of how the leather ages — see the Berlin Leather Care section below.

Water Stains and Marks

If your leather gets wet, blot it dry as soon as you can with a soft cloth — don't rub, and never apply heat or use a hair dryer. Heat dries the leather unevenly and sets the mark.

Let the piece air dry at room temperature, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. For handbags, toiletry bags, and travel bags, stand them upright and stuff them with dry fabric or tissue so they hold their shape while they dry.

Water marks often fade as the leather dries evenly. If a faint outline remains, a light conditioning once the piece is fully dry can help even out the finish.

Oil and Grease Marks

Blot — don't rub. Rubbing pushes oil deeper into the grain. Press a dry, absorbent cloth against the mark to lift as much as possible.

For what remains, sprinkle a small amount of cornstarch or talcum powder over the spot and leave it for several hours or overnight. The powder draws oil out of the leather. Brush it away gently with a soft, dry cloth and repeat if needed.

Avoid soap, dish detergent, and household degreasers. They strip the natural oils that keep leather supple and usually leave a lighter patch behind.

Ink

Ink is the hardest mark to remove and the one most likely to set permanently, so treat it quickly. Blot gently with a dry cloth to lift any wet ink on the surface.

Test Leatherology Leather Cleaner in a hidden area, then apply sparingly to the edge of the mark and work inward. Do not reach for rubbing alcohol, hairspray, or acetone: they dissolve the finish along with the ink and leave a permanent pale spot.

For set ink on a piece you care about, a professional leather specialist will get better results than any at-home method.

Lining and Interiors

Spot treat fabric linings with a baby wipe or a damp cloth to minimize stains. Empty the bag first and work from the outside of the mark inward. For microsuede interiors, use a soft, dry cloth only.

White and Light-Colored Leather

Light leather needs the same routine as everything else, just sooner. Marks that would go unnoticed on a dark bag are visible right away on white, cream, or blush — which is an advantage if you act on them, since a fresh mark lifts far more easily than a set one.

Wipe light leather down with a soft, dry cloth more often than you would a dark piece, and treat any mark the day you notice it. For a deeper clean, use a cleaner made for leather and work in light passes rather than scrubbing one spot, which can leave a patch that looks cleaner than the leather around it.

The most common problem with white leather isn't dirt — it's dye transfer from denim, dark linings, and printed materials. A new pair of jeans is the usual culprit. Keep light-colored bags off your lap when wearing raw or dark denim, and don't store a light piece pressed against a dark one.

Color Transfer

Take extra care when using dark or richly colored leather near light-colored fabric, and vice versa — denim is the most common culprit. Color may rub off over time, especially in humid or damp conditions. Suede can release dye when damp, so keep it away from light upholstery and pale clothing until it's fully dry.

Restoring Older Leather

Leather that's been stored a long time or gone years without conditioning can feel stiff, look dull, or show fine surface lines. In most cases that's dryness, not damage, and it responds well to attention.

To bring dry leather back:

1. Wipe the surface with a soft, barely damp cloth to lift dust, then let it dry fully.
2. Apply Leatherology Leather Conditioner in a thin, even layer with a soft cloth. Test in a hidden area first.
3. Let it absorb for several hours, then buff gently with a clean dry cloth.
4. Repeat after a week if the leather still feels stiff. Several light applications work better than one heavy one.

A note on cracked leather: fine surface lines that come from dryness will usually soften and become less visible with conditioning. Deep cracks that have split the grain can't be reversed at home — conditioning will keep them from spreading, but the mark stays. For a piece you'd like restored properly, a professional leather specialist is the right call.

Skip this routine entirely for Berlin and Italian Unlined leather. Neither should be conditioned. For Berlin, a smooth patina and visible character are what the leather is meant to do, not a sign that it needs restoring.

Odors & Musty Smells

New leather has a distinct natural scent that comes from the tanning process. It's a sign of real leather and it mellows on its own over a few weeks — leaving the piece out in open air, rather than sealed in its dust bag, speeds that along.

Absorbed odors are a different matter. Smoke, must, and stale smells settle into the lining and the leather's pores, and they need drawing out rather than covering up:

• Baking soda. Put a few tablespoons in an open container or a breathable cloth pouch, place it inside the bag, and close the bag loosely for one to two days. Never apply baking soda directly to leather — it's abrasive and drying.
• Air it out. Leave the piece open in a well-ventilated room, away from direct sunlight, for several days. This alone resolves most mild odors.
• Wipe the lining. Spot clean the interior with a barely damp cloth and let it dry completely before closing the bag.

A musty smell usually means moisture has been trapped — the most common cause is storing leather in a plastic bag or a closed, humid space. Air the piece out fully, then store it as described below to keep it from coming back.

Avoid spraying fabric fresheners or perfume onto leather. They sit on the surface, can stain, and don't remove what's causing the smell.

Berlin Leather Care

Berlin leather is vegetable tanned and minimally processed, giving it a smooth feel and rich color. However, this natural finish also means it's more prone to marks and scuffs compared to other leather types. Many people love this quality, as it allows the leather to develop a unique character over time — any markings that develop are a hallmark of this leather, not a defect.

To care for your Berlin leather:

• Rub out surface marks with your thumb using the natural oils in your skin.
• For light cleaning, gently wipe with a dry soft cloth.
• Do not use any leather cleaner or conditioner on Berlin leather as it will damage the surface.

Suede Care

Suede's soft texture and matte finish require a bit of extra attention to keep it looking its best.

Everyday care:

• Avoid moisture — rain, spills, and humidity can leave lasting marks. If your suede gets wet, gently blot with a dry cloth and let it air dry. Do not rub or apply heat.
• Be mindful of color transfer — suede may release dye, especially when damp. Take care when pairing with light-colored fabrics or surfaces.
• Keep away from direct sunlight, which can fade color over time.

Cleaning:

• Use a suede brush to lift dirt and revive the nap. Brush in one direction for best results.
• For light marks, a suede eraser can help. For stubborn stains, consult a leather care professional — avoid household cleaners.

Italian Unlined Leather Care

Italian Unlined leather is left without an interior lining, showcasing the leather's natural texture in its purest form. This construction gives pieces a soft, relaxed hand feel. But with less protection than lined leather, a little extra care goes a long way.

To care for your Italian Unlined leather:

• Spot clean the exterior with a damp cloth.
• Clean any microsuede parts with a soft, dry cloth.
• Do not use leather conditioner or cleaner on this leather, as it may damage the surface.

How to Store Leather

Applies to all leather types.

Leather is a natural material and should always be stored in a breathable bag — never plastic — to prevent mildew and bacteria. For handbags and travel bags, store in the provided dust bag when not in use and stuff with tissue or soft fabric to maintain shape.

Avoid resting anything on top of your leather or allowing it to fold on itself unnecessarily, as this can cause creasing over time. Always store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

For Suede, also rotate use between wears and store in a breathable cotton cover when a dust bag isn't available.